Showing posts with label exploratory trip to Ecuador. Show all posts
Showing posts with label exploratory trip to Ecuador. Show all posts

Monday, January 5, 2015

Cuenca, Ecuador: Perceptions, Misconceptions and a Third Look

During our exploratory visit to Cuenca, we wrote a post about "Preconceptions, Misconceptions and New Viewpoints". In January 2014 we updated our thoughts in this post, "Perceptions, Misconceptions and Living Here". I thought it was time for another review so here is "Perceptions, Misconceptions and a Third Look".
  1. Noise, pollution and traffic
    We notice the noise less and less all the time, I guess we have adapted to city life. The sporadic building alarm behind our new apartment bothers us the most (well, it bothers Stu).

    The traffic hasn't changed much, we still walk a lot as well as take the bus.

    Pollution is worse due to the construction for the Tranvia and our new location close to it. We expect 2015 to be the worst since construction will expand into El Centro.
     
  2. Conservative dress
    I now feel quite comfortable in jeans and a t-shirt when going out but I have also added more solid color shirts (not blouses) and a couple pairs of Duluth Trading pants. Stu has done the same. We still wear athletic shoes most of the time although I love my Ariat slip-ons for days when I'm not walking a lot.

    We are seeing more and more casual dress in the teens, even shorts, so I anticipate the continuing trend towards this as those teens grow up.
     
  3. Bad Coffee
    Very rarely do we get served bad coffee here. We love the coffee in the restaurants and love the dark roast beans we get at a local shop, Nucallacta.
     
  4. Weather
    We still love the weather here and in our new apartment with almost wall-to-wall windows, even an overcast day doesn't seem gloomy. But we know the weather isn't for everyone. It can be a bit cool at times and of course the temperature FEELS warmer or cooler at times due to the altitude.
     
  5. Stray Dogs
    Not much has changed here although there are several more rescue groups for dogs. Cats aren't seen as much...mostly with expats. We have seen more locals treating dogs as pets rather than an alarm system. We sometimes wonder if these are part of the influx of Ecuadorians returning from the US and Spain.
     
  6. Finding our way around
    We're doing much better, the addresses make sense to us now and we can finally pronounce most of the street names. Of course, we still never remember the address of places we see...thank goodness we have friends that do!
     
  7. Language Barrier
    This will be a continual learning process. Our two weeks of Spanish class helped and we both plan to keep working from our notes and workbooks (as well as using the online resources). I get compliments on my pronounciation, even when I'm not sure what I'm saying. So I guess that's a good thing.
     
  8. Safety/Security
    We really don't worry about this, as we've stated before, we use common sense when we are out and about. Since we are now in an 8 floor building, we have security at the entrance 24/7. We still don't go out a lot in the evenings, but then we didn't do that in the US either.
     
  9. Graffiti vs Street Murals
    We continue to see new murals around town and enjoy snapping photos of them. They are constantly changing. The tagging type graffiti continues but it also moves. Some of it has an artisitic quality, others, not so much. Part of city life...sigh.
     
  10. Street/Road Condition & Pedestrians (Walking)
    Nothing has changed here, it's still dangerous to be a pedestrian and you have to continually watch where you walk as well as watch the traffic. But we have had several folks motion us to cross in front of their cars and we even had a bus driver do so. We thank them gratefully!
What we love about Ecuador...this list hasn't changed from our first post other than the addition of #10. Oh, and the list is in no particular order, that would be hard to do. There is something for everyone here in Ecuador whether you plan to vacation or retire. Give it a try!
  1. The People 
  2. The Greenery
  3. The Climate 
  4. The Fresh Fruits & Vegetables 
  5. The Lack of Stress 
  6. The Little Shops  & Markets
  7. The Artisans 
  8. The Family 
  9. The Country 
  10. The Diversity
Needless to say, we still love living here. This year we plan to take a mini-trip every month, out to a surrounding town or tourist attraction. We will continue to expand our Spanish vocabulary (grammar and tense are at the bottom of our list). We see something new and interesting daily, whether from our apartment window or traveling around town. Life is good! C'mon on down for a visit...

Friday, August 8, 2014

Becoming an expat - what to expect.

There has been a lot of talk about expatriating (a misused term since the majority don't give up their citizenship) lately, both here in Ecuador as well as in the US.

Just as in the US and other countries, some folks like what they find, some don't. Expatriating  isn't for everyone. Paradise may or may not be around the corner. I know folks who sold everything, packed up and moved to a foreign country - sight unseen. More than half are still in their new homelands but more than a few have either moved on to another country or back to their original homeland. Others made multiple exploratory trips but still weren't happy once actually living in their new country.

A good friend of mine recently posted a rant about transitioning to life in Ecuador and I thought it was worth sharing, with her permission.


I occasionally run into people who say, "I've had it, Ecuador just isn't right for me". They proceed to glumly gather up all the remnants of their dreams and pack them into their uber-sized wheeled luggage, to return home. Of course, some of the reasons people return are ones that would lead many of us to turn tail......a sick family member, a 'can't refuse' job offer, or longings to be closer to grandchildren that are so much stronger than they had anticipated. 
O.k., I get it. But then there are some that leave me gap mouthed at the lack of sticktoitness. Let's just start by saying that the move to Ecuador is not just a relocation of your 'stuff'. It is a huge commitment. You are leaving your homeland. You will end up disposing, donating, selling, or packing everything that you once thought was SO important that you traded 50 hours a week to capture these cherished prizes, (for those of you counting, that's equivalent to 104 days of continuous non-stop work every year, IF you have 2 weeks of vacation and only IF during those 2 weeks of vacation does not entail calling back to the office 4 times a day, and checking emails even more frequently, but then, I digress). 
What about the social costs? The eye rolling and rumors of your impending early-onset dementia? Giving up your favorite watering hole, your Wednesday night dart team, or playing 18 on Sunday? Yikes, then there is the he glaring gap on your resume, and the associated discounting that would come with the explanation that you spent some time exploring the world (muy forboden) . Oh, and also don't underestimate the convenience of speaking the native tongue, that's a biggie. 
If you don't believe me, come to my small fishing village in need of a Phillip's head screwdriver and a stainless steel French coffee press, and let the fun begin. And then there is the paperwork, the notaries, the trips to the vet, the plane tickets, the chore of finding living arrangements, and yes, the money. Don't let anyone tell you its a cheap to get from Point A to Point B. In any case, there are many points in time for you to chicken out and so I would encourage you to do so, sooner rather than later, if you are so inclined. 
Before you embark on your journey, be sure that you are not just starry eyed by the pictures of the churches, the sandy beaches, or the majestic Andes mountains. This is not a first date, it is a long term commitment, and if you can't deal with the morning breath, you might be best to tip toe out now.
In no particular order of ridiculousness and levels of ethnocentricity, these are the reasons I have heard for fleeing Ecuador:
1. The nuns sing every morning, and I like to sleep in. Well, yes, I did move right next to the church, but there "MUST be some sort of noise ordinance!".
2. I cannot find a certified dishwasher repair man whose work won't void my warranty from the manufacturer.
3. I saw a man urinating on the side of the road.
4. "These people" don't keep their dogs on leashes.
5. I left my IPad unattended on the bus, and now I can't find it.
6. Where is the work ethic? I am so frustrated by the way 'they' take mid-day breaks (commonly referred to as lunch breaks, remember those?). Why is the work day only from 9-5, how will they ever compete in the world market?
7. I just can't live without American food.
So, if any of these sentiments ring true to you and cause you alarm, or even mild heart palpitations, I would say slow down..........slow way down. Take time to research, to visit, to immerse yourself in what could be your new life. In your excitement to relinquish your old life and all the burdens that go with it, don't forget that every exchange requires give and take.
Move here because it IS different. Move here if you can celebrate change and a new culture, even if it isn't as posh or familiar. Move here if you can see the beauty in diversity and be consistently cognizant of all the wonderful gifts this land has afforded us And maybe most importantly, move here because there are nuns that sing joyously in the morning, because the people are always at the ready to help you fix anything, and because in this land, people still realize that work will never, ever, be as important as friends, family and happiness.

Kimberley James, Ecuador or Bust Facebook Group Admin

Here are some interesting articles on the same topic.
Being an expat isn't for everyone, it takes adaptability and a willingness to accept things as they are in your new world. Keep working on what is important in life - LIVING IT!

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Crime in Ecuador

A hot topic is crime in Latin America, for us in Ecuador and specifically, Cuenca. We've all seen the grisly headlines about drug cartels and homicides. We've read about date rape drugs and other used in robberies.

But what is the reality of living here in Cuenca? We have met over 100 expats and are online friends with many more. Have any of them experienced crime personally? The truth and sad fact is, yes, some of them have.

Most of these have been crimes of opportunity - pockets picked, cell phones left sitting on the edge of a table, backpacks not secured on a packed bus. There are a few stories of face-to-face robberies, many of them at night with the victim a bit inebriated or unaware of their surroundings.

Cuenca is not a small town even though it may feel that way at times. We have learned to not carry a lot of cash, use the ATMs inside the banks or the bigger malls, keep our wallets where we can feel them, never carry original copies of our passports (not needed now that we have our cedulas of which we carry laminated copies), NEVER flash a lot of money or wear expensive watches or jewelry. It's all pretty much common sense. Expensive cameras, laptops, tablets and cell phones are primary targets but we have heard of women having their earrings snatched.

Are we targeted as gringos? At times, partially because we are known to have more money than the locals. But we have also talked to many locals who have been victims as well. Home invasions to happen, especially to those not adequately prepared. One victim's wife opened the gate to someone who was looking for his chicken he claimed had flown over their fence. She opened the gate and she was rushed by three men. They have since installed a video camera, this would have prevented the crime. Another was robbed at gunpoint and wrote about it here. He accepts some of the blame but it did destroy their feeling of security for some time.

Homes are built in enclaves of one or more, behind locked gates with the tops wired with electricity or walls with broken bottles embedded. No enclave, then you will see barred windows and heavily padlocked doors. Dogs are guards and alarms here, not so much pets.

Here in Cuenca we don't have a problem with "gypsy" cabs or cab kidnappings as Guayaquil and Quito do (in those cities always have the hotel call a cab for you and learn the markings of a licensed, registered cab). In Cuenca the majority of the cabs have webcams AND had a little red button that calls ECU-911. Yes, there is a 911 service here, in fact the husband of the gal that runs my favorite beauty salon, works for ECU-911. We have never felt unsafe in a Cuenca taxi or on the bus but we are very aware of our belongings when on the bus.

Do we worry incessantly about this? Absolutely not! But we are aware. If we go out at night, we use a taxi. We avoid the buses when they are very crowded. If we plan to attend an event with a lot of people, we carry as little as possible with us and even have an old cell phone we can use as a throwaway. We try to keep extra money hidden, just have a couple of ones and maybe a ten or twenty to hand over. We avoid unpopulated areas when walking, especially at dawn or dusk. We have never felt threatened but we also are constantly aware of our surroundings.

July 14, 2014 ARTICLE: Former criminologist discusses crime in Cuenca

 Poverty is the mother of crime.
Marcus Aurelius

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Cuenca and Altitude Sickness

There was a good article in my Gringo Tree newsletter today that I thought I should share for anyone considering visiting or moving to Cuenca.
Cuenca is 8,000 or More Feet Above Sea Level

Roughly one in five people who travel to altitudes 7,000-9,000 feet, without acclimating at lower elevations, experiences some degree of high-altitude illness. How do you know if you'll be one of the five? In general, you don't. A medical history of heart or lung disease doesn't predispose you and being physically fit doesn't protect you. 

Airplane cabins are pressurized to simulate atmospheric conditions around 7,000 feet, so if you have no trouble flying, you should have little trouble in Cuenca. What if you do? Here are some suggestions from expats who've suffered from it.

Dissolve a quarter-cup of sugar in a water bottle. When you get a little dizzy, out of breath, nauseous, or headachy, drink a couple swallows and in two or three minutes the symptoms are gone.

HydroPLUS 45 (or an equivalent) is sold at farmacias and costs $3.50 per bottle, no prescription needed. A bottle a day restores electrolytes, good for dehydration from altitude.

Mate de coca (tea)is sold at any natural-food store. It's cheap, not habit-forming, and the only side effect might be a little caffeine-like buzz. It's an almost instant cure for altitude sickness.

Two prescription drugs are effective at reducing symptoms: acetazolamide (Diamox) and dexamethasone (a powerful steroid).

If all else fails, get to a lower elevation quickly. Fastest from Cuenca is the road to Machala. You ascend to around 9,000 feet, but then descend fast; by the time you reach Girón in about a half-hour, you're under 7,000 feet, where you should feel better.

If your heart is set on Ecuador and you turn out to be susceptible to altitude sickness, your chances of making it in Cuenca are slim. You could try Cotacachi north of Quito (7,800 feet), Yunguilla Valley south of Cuenca (6,000 feet), Vilcabamba (just under 5,000 feet), or the coast (sea level).
Both times we flew to Ecuador, we took Diamox two days before departure and two days after our arrival. We both felt we benefited from it and we had few, if any, side effects. Others have used the methods described above with the Mate de Coco being the most often recommended.

You also need to stay hydrated, drink a LOT of water. The good news is the water in Cuenca is very good, often called the best in the county. And lastly, rest...and that can be difficult in this beautiful city.


Thursday, May 16, 2013

Q&A - A few little notes....

As always there are things that I forget to put in the blog that might interest others about this journey to living in Ecuador. Here are a couple that popped into mind after a great night's sleep here in the US after 36+ hours of unbelievable traveling.
  • Q: Doesn't tossing used toilet paper into a trash can bother you?

    Nope, not at all. But then again, we've been RVers for more than a few years and have done this ourselves to help the waste tanks in our rig perform better. You dispose of it frequently and there is no real odor.
     
  • Q: Did you have trouble living at over 8k feet (altitude)?

    Not really. We did get an Rx from our doctor here in the US for Diamox (which can have some side effects). We took it two days before and after our arrival. The only side effect either of us experienced was a little tingling in extremities on the last day.

    It really helped us survive both the altitude and climbing the mountain of steps that first day. Then we stopped at every landing. By the time we left we were stopping mid-way only. Every day was different. For me, if I was talking while walking uphill, I had to slow or get out of breath. But in general, no major issues (maybe a little insomnia).
     
  • Q: Is it true that you can't use any bill higher than a $20?

    Pretty much. A twenty is the largest bill bigger places will accept and many won't have change for that. We also got a lot of Sacajawea dollars back in change. Why? Because they outlast paper dollar bills. :) We'll get a couple of rolls to take back with us.

    It does seem strange to travel with a pocket of change after years of using a change jar on the counter. It's especially important when out and walking a lot - some public baños (restrooms) - cost a dime. At the mercado (market), it's best to have exact change whenever possible.
     
  • Q: Do you have to shop at the open markets? Isn't there a Wal-Mart?

    No, you don't have to shop at the open markets. We did a little but know we got gringoed (overcharged) because we weren't fluent enough in Spanish to haggle. There are Wal-Mart type stores such as Coral that carry everything from groceries to baby items to appliances to minor construction equipment to musical instruments to...well, you get the idea. There is also SuperMaxi for groceries and a few household items. We picked up our pillows at our first SuperMaxi trip.

    Of course this all applies to Cuenca. Quayaquil and Quito are also large cities and have their own flavor of stores, including department and specialty stores. The coastal towns are smaller and there are many more rural areas where the markets are your only shopping spot.
Got a question? Post it in a comment and we'll try to answer in a future post!


Monday, May 13, 2013

Cuenca, Ecuador: Preconceptions, Misconceptions and New Viewpoints

As it turns out, many of our preconceptions (based upon reading online and books), turned out to be misconceptions (at least for us). Here are our current feelings about Cuenca, Ecuador.
  1. Noise, pollution and traffic
    For us thus far, the noise level has been tolerable. But this is entirely based upon where we are staying. There are many places noisier as well as quieter. The pollution hasn't been an issue unless caught in a trail of black diesel exhaust from a bus. The good news is that they are working on converting to propane powered buses in the next few years. There is also a light rail being built and a percentage of El Centro will become pedestrian malls. Traffic? No worse than any city and surprisingly not as chaotic as we thought it would be.
  2. Conservative dress
    I think we were a little mislead on this one. While business professionals wear conservative dress, we also see a lot of casual dress on all ages (locals and expats). Bright colors abound and not just on the indigenous people. The one item we only see on the young are imprinted t-shirts. Surprisingly I've only seen skirts on professional business women and the indigenous women/girls. It is true that you don't see a lot of shorts. The exception are a few (very few) expats, bicyclists (a growing group), University students (of all nationalities) and tourists (yes, we can easily spot most of them). Anyway, for the most part business casual plus jeans is all that is needed.
  3. Bad Coffee
    Every thing we read led us to believe that we weren't going to be able to find good coffee here. After trying two restaurants, we came to the conclusion that these folks must like weak coffee because the coffee we had was nice and strong (the way we like it). We haven't had a bad cup yet and recently found out about a shop where we can get the beans ourselves (the grocery store stuff isn't really up to par).
  4. Weather
    We both have really enjoyed the weather and the fact that it changes rapidly throughout the day has been fun, surprisingly. I do remember the first few days that were very gray and I wished for a little more sun. Well, I got it...we had five days in a row of sunny days without rain. Lifted my spirits and the rest of our stay has been wonderful.
  5. Stray Dogs
    Unfortunately this is an issue but it's a cultural one. Dogs aren't pets as we are used to them being. They are utilitarian if they have owners - they are alarms. We noticed a lot of behavioral differences in the street dogs as compared to our beloved pets in the US. Many owners let their dogs roam so just because they are on the street, doesn't mean they don't have a home. We rarely saw a skinny or sick looking dog but know that they haven't been vaccinated and do carry disease. It's sad to us but it's a way of life here. There are organizations doing rescue and spay but they are privately run and no telling how long they will having the funding needed to continue. There is one other downside - dog poop everywhere. Sigh...
  6. Finding our way around
    This was a bigger challenge than anticipated, mainly due to the Spanish names. By week three another expat (thank you, Mike L.) introduced us to citymaps2go. Works on both iPhone and Android and the free version allows the download of two maps. NO internet required once it's downloaded. LOVE IT!
  7. Language Barrier
    This, needless to say, has been our biggest issue. We have learned several key phrases and we appreciate every local who has helped us learn more (the maids here at Apartmentos Otorongo, the waiter at Magnolia Caffe and others). Another thank you to Mike L. for introducing us to the app, Jibbigo. Also good for both platforms and doesn't require the Internet. My iPhone has an old OS so I couldn't download either app but Stu put both on his iPhone 4S and they have been a HUGE help. Wish we had them earlier....
  8. Safety/Security
    One foreign gentleman said he couldn't stay here and live in a cage. We don't look at it that way but we can see how he interpreted the culture and surroundings. If you think traditional Spanish architecture, the house was built with an inside courtyard and all the rooms looked inward. Whether for safety/security in those days or not, the culture has continued. All buildings are well protected with walls, electric alarms, barbed wire or broken glass at the top of the walls, etc. Dogs are the secondary alarm system. From the exterior a house or apartment building may look less than reliable but inside is a different story. Being built in this fashion not only makes it safer but it provides a barrier against the street noise in many areas. We have grown very accustomed to seeing people reach inside a fence to unlock a padlock, search multiple keys to unlock a heavy door or buzz so the resident can come down to let you in.
  9. Graffiti vs Street Murals
    No misconceptions here - graffiti is alive and well in Cuenca. The sad thing is that a lot of the graffiti is painted on top of some very interesting murals. The good thing is that the town has instituted a program to change this. We are hopeful that it will help.
  10. Street/Road Condition & Pedestrians (Walking)
    We had seen photos of the sidewalks with metal sticking up, potholes and obstructions so we were prepared. We had been warned that streets might not be up to par and we've seen those as well as dirt roads. We'd been warned that pedestrians are targets and don't have the right of way. We have managed it all, gotten very good at crossing streets (even the ones without crossing lights as well as the ones with traffic coming from multiple directions), haven't fallen, have walked huge stairs (up and down) and still are amazed at the women here who gracefully navigate all this in stiletto heels. Phew! I do have to mention one last thing about walking. There are those times when you run into the smell of stale urine. Regardless of laws, some men/boys just can't wait and use various corners. No worse than a truck stop/rest area in the US though. Hasn't slowed our walking at all - we've been averaging 3-6 hours a day of meandering around El Centro.
What we've come to love about Ecuador...
  1. The People
    They are always willing to help, always willing to share a smile, hard workers with a love of live. Of course it's like anywhere else, there is always that ONE...but in general all our experiences have been wonderful. We look forward to learning more conversational Spanish so we can better chat with the locals.
  2. The Greenery
    The wonderful climate is responsible for the wealth of growing plants, bushes, trees and crops. There is something blooming all the time and the nighttime smells are amazing. In addition there is the added bonus of the hummingbirds that are much larger than we are used to in the US. That means they fly slower and they actually perch on branches. A great treat to see, even in the darkening light at dusk.
  3. The Climate
    While there isn't much change from day to day, you can experience several seasons in one day. It is normally cool in the morning, warming as the sun arises, at some point it usually rains a bit, then it cools again in the evening. Oh, and thanks to the constantly moving clouds, the view is always different. [avg nights are in the 40-50 range, avg days are in the 60-70 range, but at this altitude it always feels warmer in the sun] Homes typically do not have heat or air conditioning as neither is needed most of the time. Some folks have little space heaters for the extra cool am/pm time. Another bonus of the climate and altitude is the lack of flying insects. There are no screens on the windows, you just open and enjoy the fresh air.
  4. The Fresh Fruits & Vegetables
    What can we say but OH MY!!! Eating good food, inexpensively, without a lot of additives. How can that not be good.
  5. The Lack of Stress
    Regardless of the traffic and city bustle, it's hard to let yourself get stressed here. We both noticed it, the mañana attitude. It will get done, maybe not today, but that's okay!
  6. The Little Shops  & Markets
    No matter what you need, there is someplace to get it. We're talking the day to day things, not the big ones like major appliances (you can get them, too, just be prepared to pay - dearly for American or well known brands). The mercados (open markets) are where you can get the best deals on food as well as other goods and there are several. It's so fun to be within walking distance of your daily grocery shopping.
  7. The Artisans
    Panama hats, embroidered blouses and shawls, wonderful Alpaca sweaters, handmade sterling silver jewelry, carvings, painting, and so much more!
  8. The Family
    It's all about the family and we love that, watching the interactions, how they interrelate and how they take others into their family, la familia.
  9. The Country
    Ecuador is a small country, compared to the US, about the size of Nevada. But it is very diverse and we so look forward to traveling to other parts and visiting. The rain forest, the coast, the ruins, the rural towns with artisan specialties. And then there is the rest of South America!
So what are our plans? To return to Ecuador before the end of 2013 and make it our home for the next 5-6 years. Watch for updates as we start the process of telling our family, going through our belongings to determine what comes with us and purchasing a few new things we need to bring.


Sunday, May 12, 2013

Feliz día de la madre

First and foremost, Happy Mother's Day! The last several days the streets have been full of additional vendors selling flowers, jewelry and other trinkets. We made reservations at Restaurante Rustico for dinner at 4 pm, knowing all the open restaurants were going to be very busy.

Yesterday we had dinner with new friends, Bo and Linda. They are both excellent cooks and we enjoyed a great evening of laughter and sharing with them and their friends, Olga and Ed. After dinner we took a stroll around El Centro and enjoyed the sights and lights. Even at 9 pm, there were vendors out, ready for last minute purchasers. Linda stopped to talk to her flower lady and all three of us women were given a beautiful red rose to enjoy.

Keeping this short, soon I will post about preconceptions, misconceptions and new viewpoints. Chao!


Friday, May 10, 2013

Oh no! It can't be time to leave already....

But it is...and the next few days are just as packed as the last three weeks. We've walked every day, enjoyed the several mercado's multiple times, picked up a few nice souvenirs in local artisan shops, met more new friends, and just generally had a wonderful time.

The highlight of the day was picking up our custom, one of a kind, hand made, sterling silver wedding bands. We have been frequenting the Magnolia Caffe restaurant since our first week here and have become friends with the owner, Simon Cordero. He is an amazing silversmith and jewelry designer and we fell in love with his work the first time we visited. We showed him our gold wedding bands and asked him if he could do something similar in sterling silver. That was less than three weeks ago; we picked them up tonight and absolutely love them. (I wish the photos were better, will try again tomorrow in daylight).

Here is the only photo I currently have of our gold rings:


Here is the photo we took tonight when we picked up our sterling silver rings:


This is Simon Cordero with Stu....


We've had some heavy night time rains the last few evenings, leaving a heavy dew in the morning. Here are a few shots of the sky at night and the plants in the morning as well as some interesting cloud cover moving in tonight as we walked to Magnolia Caffe.


Everyone has been telling us to take the double-decker red bus tour and we finally did. Best $5 (ea) we have spent and we'll do it again! Here are a few random photos. As always you can see all our photos from our time here in Ecuador on SmugMug.


Tomorrow night we are having dinner at a friend's house and they're going to show us the nightlife in El Centro. Sunday is Mother's Day (happy day to all the mothers out there) and we have reservations at Rustico Restaurant. For $15 we get minestrone soup, bolognese style meat lasagna or grilled Mahi Mahi, homemade tiramisu and a glass of house wine.

Monday we'll say most of our final farewells to all new friends, Tuesday morning we pack and that afternoon we take a van to the Guayaquil airport for our red-eye flight. (Ugh!) We will be staying in a hotel the first night and then we'll find out the status on our rig repair. Emails thus far aren't promising. (more later as we know more)


Wednesday, May 8, 2013

A few links of interest and where our plans are heading...

For those of you still wondering WHY, here are a few links that explain it better than I could.
Our time here is drawing to a close and unless something traumatic happens, we plan to return in mid-December (after our Tampa cruise). While many plan to live here forever, we still think we will stay 5-6 years, saving enough to pay cash for our log cabin and pole barn on our property in Tennessee.

We have a lot of planning to do, several decisions to make (our pup, Sadie, being one of those) and a few grand adventures left to do in the US this year. We'll continue to blog here as decisions and plans are made. We have made dozens of friends already in Cuenca, some Cuencanos but most expat Americans. We'll keep following them as well as they continue their life in Ecuador and will still use them as the best resource for information.

Since our last post we've been busy with meet and greets, wandering the city, checking out local festivities, talking to anyone who is willing to lend an ear and today, taking the red bus tour. Rather than glut the blog with photos, you can see them all in our SmugMug album. Here are a few fun ones....note the brooms used to sweep the streets after an event...love it!



Thursday, May 2, 2013

Interim Lists

We've been here two and a half weeks so I thought it was time to list some pros, cons and just general differences and opinions.

First the pros - for us there have been quite a few.
  • We're walking - a LOT. Stu says we're averaging about 5k steps per nap (yes, afternoon naps are a common occurance).
  • The climate - while a bit cool at times (made worse by a drafty apartment), we don't really miss the heat. We're dressing in layers and always carry something in case of a rain shower. The weather here changes rapidly but the temperature variation from day to day is miminal - all year round.
  • The vegetation - never have I seen so many gorgeous flowering trees, bushes and flowers in general. Again, all year round.
  • The food - everything tastes so good. The fruit is amazing, no preservatives but so full of flavor. Since we aren't cooking, we're lacking in the area of vegetables but they look good, too. The ones we have eaten have been wonderful.
  • The restaurants - we've only been in a few but have loved them all. San Sebas, Magnolia Cafe, California Kitchen, Cafe Austria, Good Affinity all come to mind. 
  • The people - the includes locals as well as expats, most everyone has been welcoming and helpful.
  • Transportation - the most we have spent on a taxi has been $3, the least was $1.50. You can ride the buses for 25 cents, we've done that once and will do it again. It's easy to get around, just close your eyes if the traffic makes you too nervous. LOL!
  • The cost of living - some things cost the same as in the US but in general, you can save a lot of money living here. Rentals range from a couple hundred dollars a month to over $1000, all depending on what you want. We feel confident we can find something in the $250-450 unfurnished and $500-700 furnished. Many include the utilities as well as Internet.
  • No soda drinking - we haven't had one since we arrived. We drink whole milk, Limonada (fresh & delicious), Té helado (iced tea), cervasa (we both like Club Rojas when we can get it) and cafe americano con leche (strong coffee with a little sugar and whole milk)
  • Money is USD - yup, everything is in US dollars, no conversion!
  • Stress - ummm, none? Even when the mañana factor comes into play, that's okay. We're not in a rush for anything.
 As in life anywhere, there are a few cons. Some we don't consider as things that bother us, some are just quirky, some are cultural/regional and some we hope will change with growth in the city.
  • The buses - one day the diesel smoke spewing buses will be replaced with propane driven buses. That will be a good thing. In the meantime, the pro outweighs the con on this one.
  • The graffiti - there are some wonderful painted murals around the city but many have been "tagged". The same for any large plain wall, signs for businesses, houses. It doesn't bother the locals and while we don't enjoy it, we no longer let it bother us.
  • The dogs - it's very hard to see strays living on the street. There are a couple of expat organizations that are working to remove and spay them in hopes of finding a home for them. Dogs here are not so much pets as alarms. They aren't coddled or pampered. The surprising thing is watching them interact. If you have ever watched Cesar Milan, you will understand when we say these are very balanced dogs. We work daily to not "fall" for them and to adjust our view to the local cultural view.
  • The drivers - are very fast and ignore pedestrians for the most part. That said, we have seen almost no accidents, not even bumper taps. There is a rhythm and flow to the traffic that we have come to appreciate.
  • The language - this is only a con because we don't speak Spanish. We pick up new words and phrases daily and try to use them even when spoken to in English (by a local). Practice makes - well, it helps. ;-) We enjoy our chats with the maids at our apartments, the taxi drivers and the wait staff at the restaurants. All levels of English, including none, but they are all very patient with us as we work to get our point across. Lessons are a MUST. This is their country and their language.
  • The noise - everyone told us to be prepared for the noise from traffic, car alarms and barking dogs. We haven't found this to be an issue for us and we are in a busy area traffic-wise. May be due to being RVers and living in campgrounds beside interstates and train tracks. LOL!
  • Petty crime - as in many big cities, most crime is committed because an opportunity presents itself. We follow common sense guidelines - no large quantities of money, divide money into several pockets/purses/wallets, don't wear flashy jewelry (especially gold), don't flash large wads of money, when traveling by taxi at night call a driver you or your host knows, don't let anyone into your home area unless you know them.
Now for some of the quirky little differences that have caught our eye.
  • Paper products - napkins, toilet paper, paper towels all seem to be in a junior size. 
  • Matches - when we arrived in our apartment, there was a small box of matches for lighting the stove. We had trouble with them being so small and on a skinny plastic stick rather than wood. So intelligent Gringos that we are, we bought two big boxes of matches (50 cents). Opened them up and found....a lot of little tiny matches, just like were in the small box. LOL!
  • We have been able to find just about anything we need (toiletries, cleaning supplies, laundry detergent, etc) in both local and US brands. We opt for the local at half the price (and works just as well).
  • The street sweepers - not the trucks in the US that roll down city streets at night, these are a large cadre of employees, dressed to match, rolling garbage cans and brooms around the city keeping it clean. BRAVO!
  • Living behind walls - this is the culture and it goes way back to courtyards inside the house. Some don't like it, we have no problem with it. Crime is everywhere in the world, there is no perfect paradise, deal with it!
  • The indigenous people are amazing! Their faces tell their stories, their brightly colored clothing make me smile, their friendliness is surprising at times and their strength is what legends are made from.
  • The little ones - we don't get the immediate smiles that we see back in the US but we intrigue them and they stare at us while we smile at them. Adorable!!
  • A smartphone or tablet battery lasts a long time without Internet access. Fortunately, where there is access, the speed is better (most of the time) than what we've been experiencing in campgrounds recently using our Verizon aircard. I love that I got my iPhone 3G converted to use here, 20 cents per call. Put $10 on it and won't use a tenth of the time.
  • Furniture - is usually low and smaller, just like the locals. Thin foam padding flattens easily under our ample frames. Ooops! You can get custom furniture made reasonably though.
  • Electronics ARE expensive - if you are thinking of relocating, check prices here to help decide what to bring.
I know I am missing some things but this has been a LONG post. At this point, unless something MAJOR happens in the next twelve days - we'll be back! We both love it here and think we'll be getting some culture shock when we return to the US on May 15th. 


Wednesday, May 1, 2013

What day is it?

I have to look at the calendar to see what day of the week it is - this is real retirement! The days just keep running into each other - I have to check Google calendar so we know what we have planned for the day (if anything). Today was a nothing planned day. Yesterday was an evening out at a charity event to help fund the painting of 100 ft of murals for the children's hospital.

We continue to meet new folks, wander the city on foot and even try riding the bus system. A bus ride anywhere is 25 cents (and if you're over 65, it's 12.5 cents - you use a bus pass). Stu continues to lose weight with all our walking but the eating out is my downfall. We'll see at the end of our month here when we get home and weigh ourselves.

Here are some photos from the charity event:


Here are some general pics taken recently (the drinks are Iced Tea and Lemonade):


Here are some from walking around today, Labor Day, including peaceful demonstration walks through the downtown area (much of which was closed off to cars):


And finally, some of the new market area we discovered today:



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